The 25-Day Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812 m / 22,349 ft) is universally acclaimed as the ultimate jewel of Himalayan technical mountaineering. Nicknamed the 'Matterhorn of the Himalayas' due to its soaring granite spires, steep exposed ridges, and iconic hanging glacier ('Dablam'), Ama Dablam commands the center of the Everest Khumbu valley. Ascending via the classic Southwest Ridge, this expedition requires proficient rock, ice, and mixed climbing skills over granite slabs, knife-edge snow crests, and vertical rock steps—including the famous Yellow Tower (French 5b / US 5.8) and Camp 2's dramatic perched ledge (5,950 m). Led by elite 1:1 IFMGA/NNMGA certified Climbing Sherpas, backed by fixed ropes, high-altitude camps, and premium base camp outfitting, this is the definitive technical testpiece for world-class mountaineers.
Requires Nepal Department of Tourism (DoT) Ama Dablam Mountaineering Permit, Sagarmatha National Park Permit, Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Permit, and a certified Government Liaison Officer. Climbers must possess prior technical alpine climbing experience (solid competency on French 5a/5b rock, steep 50°–65° ice/mixed terrain, jumaring fixed ropes on sheer exposure, and rappelling). Acclimatization is built into the Khumbu trek and Lobuche East / Base Camp rotations.
Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. Meet our VIP expedition concierge for private transfer to your 5-star hotel. Rest, settle in, and attend an evening welcome orientation with your expedition leader.
Attend the official expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the government liaison officer. Complete thorough technical gear inspections with your lead climbing Sherpa in Thamel, testing jumar ascenders, double boots, crampons, harnesses, and safety lanyards.
Board a morning flight to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. Meet your dedicated porter and Sherpa support team. Begin trekking along the Dudh Koshi riverbank past carved Buddhist Mani walls and pine forests to Phakding.
Enter Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo and cross the iconic Hillary Suspension Bridge suspended over the confluence of the Bhote Koshi and Dudh Koshi. Climb the sustained pine forest switchbacks to reach the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar.
Take a scenic acclimatization morning hike up past Syangboche to Hotel Everest View (3,880 m) for your first majestic view of Ama Dablam, Everest, and Lhotse. Explore Khumjung monastery before returning to Namche Bazaar.
Follow the panoramic high trail contouring around the valley rim facing Ama Dablam. Descend to Phunki Thenga for lunch, then ascend through rhododendron forests to the spiritual crest of Tengboche Monastery. Tour the monastery and descend to Deboche.
Cross the Imja Khola and visit the ancient Pangboche Monastery to receive high-altitude blessings. Branch off the main trail, ascending gentle alpine grassy slopes to establish Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600 m / 15,091 ft) on a wide meadow directly beneath the soaring Southwest Ridge.
Climbing Sherpas and Lama conduct the sacred Buddhist Puja ceremony at Base Camp. Conduct intensive hands-on technical training: jumar ascending on steep rock slabs, high-angle switchovers, descending with figure-8/ATC on fixed lines, and safety tether discipline.
12-Day Climbing Window on the Southwest Ridge:• Rotation 1: Ascend boulder moraine to Yak Camp / ABC (5,400 m). Climb granite slabs and fixed ropes to Camp 1 (5,700 m) on a narrow rocky crest. Sleep at Camp 1 for acclimatization and return to Base Camp.• Rotation 2: Climb past Camp 1 across exposed knife-edge granite ridges. Ascend the famous Yellow Tower (pitch of 5.8 rock climbing) to reach the dramatic, highly exposed ledge of Camp 2 (5,950 m). Touch Camp 2 and return to Base Camp to rest.• Summit Bid: After resting at Base Camp waiting for a weather window, climb to Camp 1, then proceed to Camp 2 or high Camp 3 (6,300 m) below the hanging glacier.• Summit Night: Depart at 11:00 PM. Climb steep mixed ice/snow slopes (50°–60°), traversing around the right flank of the hanging Dablam ice cliff. Follow the aesthetic summit snow crest to stand atop Ama Dablam (6,812 m / 22,349 ft) at sunrise. Marvel at an unblocked close-up panorama of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. Carefully abseil/rappel down the fixed lines back to Camp 2 and Base Camp.
Dismantle high camps, pack all garbage under strict SPCC environmental regulations, and organize gear onto pack yaks. Celebrate summit success with your climbing Sherpa guide and kitchen team.
Trek down through Pangboche, Deboche, and Tengboche, descending to the riverbed and climbing back up into the bustling town of Namche Bazaar. Enjoy hot showers, fresh bakeries, and celebratory toasts.
Retrace your steps down the Hillary Bridge switchbacks and through Monjo and Phakding along the Dudh Koshi river gorge. Make the final gentle climb into Lukla for an evening farewell celebration with your local porter team.
Board a morning flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu. Meet our private vehicle for transfer to your 5-star hotel. Afternoon free for massages and souvenir shopping in Thamel, followed by an official summit celebration dinner with company directors.
Complete final debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism and receive official government climbing certificates. Private VIP transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your international return flight home.
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