The 18-Day Mera Peak Climbing Expedition leads to the summit of Nepal's highest official trekking peak at 6,476 meters (21,247 ft). Situated on the edge of the Makalu Barun National Park in the secluded Hinku Valley, Mera Peak offers one of the most comprehensive mountain viewpoints in the world. To ensure maximum acclimatization and safety, the route takes the gradual southern circuit through Paiya, Panggom, and Ningsow before ascending the wild river gorge to Kothe, Thaknak, and Khare (5,045 m). Following dedicated glacier skills and jumar training, you will establish Mera High Camp (5,780 m) before conquering the glaciated dome for an unblocked panoramic sunrise across five 8,000-meter giants: Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kanchenjunga.
Requires an official Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) Mera Peak Climbing Permit, Makalu Barun National Park Permit, Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Entry Permit, and Garbage Deposit. Maximum elevation is 6,476 m at the summit. While non-technical in terms of steep rock, the extreme altitude requires excellent cardiovascular endurance, high-altitude mountaineering double boots, crampons, and warm alpine gear (-20°C rated).
Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. Meet our company representative for private transfer to your hotel in Thamel. Spend the afternoon resting or exploring the city. In the evening, attend a comprehensive expedition briefing and gear inspection with your climbing leader over a traditional welcome dinner.
A dedicated preparation day in Kathmandu. Finalize all NMA climbing permits, test your climbing harness, boots, crampons, and warm layers, and rent any missing technical gear in Thamel. Enjoy a free afternoon for last-minute shopping and hydration.
Board an early morning scenic flight to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. Meet your climbing Sherpa guide and porter crew. Rather than heading north to Everest, branch south along quiet trails past Surke, descending through subtropical forests to cross the Chutok La pass (2,945 m) to settle into your lodge in Paiya.
Descend to a wooden bridge over the Handi Khola before beginning a steady uphill climb through dense rhododendron and bamboo cloud forests. Cross the scenic ridge of Kari La Pass (3,145 m) with opening views into the southern Dudh Koshi valley. Descend gently into the peaceful Sherpa settlement of Panggom, touring its historic local monastery.
Climb out of Panggom over Panggom La pass (3,174 m), following single-track paths contouring high above the Inkhu Khola. Trek through pristine pine and rhododendron woods past Peseng Kharka Danda, crossing the Ningsow Khola on a suspension bridge to check into your lodge in the secluded farming hamlet of Ningsow.
A challenging wilderness day traversing rugged forested ridges. Ascend and descend through dense bamboo and birch forests, entering Makalu Barun National Park. The trail navigates rocky stream beds and steep mud tracks with opening glimpses of Mera Peak’s southern ridges before arriving at the riverside camp clearing of Chhatra Khola.
Climb out of the side canyon onto a high ridge viewpoint overlooking the roaring Hinku Drangka River. Descend through silver fir and pine forests to join the main Hinku Valley trail at Tashing Dingma. Follow the wide, boulder-strewn riverbank north to the pleasant riverside village of Kothe to register national park entry permits.
Walk along the widening glacial valley floor beneath the towering rock walls of Kyashar and Kusum Kanguru. Pass the historic 200-year-old Lungsumgba Gompa built under an overhanging rock cliff, where climbers receive blessings for a safe ascent. Continue past pasturelands to the alpine settlement of Thaknak, situated beside the Sabai Tsho glacial moraine.
Follow the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier, climbing past the outlet of the Dig Tsho glacial lake. Ascend steady switchbacks across the high alpine plateau of Dig Kharka. Navigate boulder fields and moraine ridges beneath the glaciated face of Mera Peak to reach the mountain outpost of Khare (5,045 m), the main base for climbing operations.
Spend an essential rest and training day in Khare. In the morning, your IFMGA/NNMGA climbing Sherpa conducts hands-on mountaineering training on the nearby snow and ice slopes. Practice walking with crampons, self-arrest with ice axes, fixed-line ascending using jumars, and safe abseiling techniques with figure-eight descenders. Rest early.
Climb a steep rocky ridge and scramble across boulder fields to reach the crampon point at the tongue of the Mera Glacier. Put on crampons, rope up, and navigate the gentle glaciated pass of Mera La (5,415 m). Climb the open, crevassed snow slopes up to the rocky perch of Mera High Camp (5,780 m). Savor sunset over Everest, Makalu, and Chamlang before sleeping in tents.
Wake at 2:00 AM under starlight for a hot breakfast and gear up. Step onto the frozen glacier in rope teams, climbing the steady 30-degree glaciated dome as dawn breaks. Approach the steep 45-degree final summit snow ridge using fixed ropes and jumars to top out on Mera Peak Central (6,476 m). Behold a 360-degree panorama of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga. Abseil down safely to High Camp for hot soup, then descend back to the comfort of your lodge in Khare.
A dedicated buffer day built into the schedule to safeguard against high winds, heavy summit snowfall, or extra acclimatization needs. If the summit was achieved on Day 12, this day provides a relaxed recovery day celebrating in Khare.
Begin your descent following the Hinku Valley riverbed. The increase in oxygen levels makes walking effortless as you retrace your steps past Thaknak, Dig Kharka, and the Lungsumgba rock monastery. Return into the lush sub-alpine rhododendron and pine forests of Kothe to celebrate with your crew.
Branch west off the Hinku River canyon, tackling a sustained uphill climb through thick rhododendron and juniper forests. Climb past the pastures of Chhatra La onto the high alpine plateau of Thuli Kharka (4,300 m), situated directly below the Zatrwa La pass.
An early start to cross the rocky, prayer-flag-crowned saddle of Zatrwa La Pass (4,610 m). Savor a final panoramic view across the Hinku Valley and Dudh Koshi basin before descending a long series of stone switchbacks through Chutanga into Lukla. Check into your lodge for an evening farewell party with your climbing guides and porters.
Board a morning flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu (or Ramechhap). Meet our private vehicle for transfer to your hotel in Thamel. Spend the afternoon enjoying hot showers, massages, and souvenir shopping.
Enjoy breakfast at your hotel before transferring to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight home, concluding the 18-day Mera Peak climbing expedition.
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